From health to status symbol: towards a typology of glow in cosmetics marketing

Abstract

Purpose This paper aims to explore the history of marketing the concept of glow, or, glowing skin, within the American cosmetics sphere from the early 20th century and into the 21st to understand why glow has increased so dramatically in the beauty industry within the past 10 years. The paper investigates the origins of glow’s contemporary significance as a status symbol and luxury commodity by analyzing the various categories of glow that were advertised, as well as their underlying meanings. How did the marketing of glow products from the 1900s through the 2010s shift over time, shape consumer associations with glow and lead to what can only be described as a cultural obsession with the concept? Design/methodology/approach The paper focused on the marketing of complexion products, i.e. facial skincare and color cosmetics such as powder, foundation, bronzers, blush and highlighter. An analysis of 102 ads from newspaper archives and women’s magazine archives in the USA and the UK, along with online descriptions of 38 products from two of the largest US beauty retailers, Sephora and Ulta, was conducted. Beauty columns and trend pieces are included alongside ads and product descriptions for additional context. Findings Historically, glow has been segmented into nine categories, some of which overlap in their advertising. While beauty culture has changed significantly since the birth of the industry in the early 1900s and the meaning of glow carries more emotional and psychological weight than ever before, companies are using the same tactics and advice to sell glow in the 21st century. The ambiguity of the term and the fact that skin glow cannot yet be scientifically measured means that it can be applied to an infinite number of products intended for any demographic or occasion. Additionally, as skin glow has traditionally been recognized as the external expression of positive internal feelings or states (health, love, happiness, etc.), glow products may be perceived by consumers as substitutes for the absence of such states. Practical implications By harnessing glow’s unclear, internal/external nature in product names and descriptions, the beauty industry can expand its reach into the wellness sector and seize on consumers’ desires to not only look better, but feel better. Originality/value Tracing the evolution of glow’s marketing provides a better understanding of its significance for consumers today and why it has essentially become its own industry in the 21st century. Additionally, presenting an example of how marketing a particular category of cosmetics can reach beyond the beauty industry and become a broader cultural phenomenon. Future research can build on this analysis of glow for other cosmetic buzzwords and any deeper, more emotional meanings that may be associated with them.